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\begin{document}

\title{Climbing gym reviewes~~~~~~~~~~~~}



\author[1]{Inga P}%
\author[2]{Russ Hodge}%
\affil[1]{ClimbersForClimbers}%
\affil[2]{Affiliation not available}%


\vspace{-1em}



  
  \date{May 07, 2024}


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\selectlanguage{english}
\begin{abstract}
I, herby, describe motivation and methodology behind writing climbing
gym reviews.%
\end{abstract}%



\sloppy




\section*{Introduction (history of the
idea)}

{\label{874460}}

I started climbing gym hopping when I started doing science.~ ~{As a
scientist and climber,~I am luckily condemned to travel an awful lot. As
a scientist, I should frequently visit conferences in different
countries to stay in the loop with the subject of my research.~
Although, doing science is indeed super-interesting and exciting, when I
started ``to behave'' as a scientist, my time to climb outside
dramatically decreased (although my strength increased since I increased
the time spent in the gym).~}~I do admit that I fail to organize my
outside climbing activities better during my adventures as a scientist,
and I conducted a list of possible explanations to account for my
failure:

\par\null

1.~~~~~~ too short duration of a science-related visit, or

2.~~~~~~ too complicated to organize an outdoor climbing session, or

3.~~~~~~ the local weather forecast/altitude/time of the year did not
support my outdoor wishes (winter + low temperatures + a conference
organized in the Northern Europe), or

4. I ended up living in the middle of lowland without any rock~exposures
(I do my PhD in Berlin :/ ).

My quick fix to a problem of not being able to climb for real is
\ldots{} bouldering\ldots{} in the gym.~A short visit to local climbing
gym has been the most convenient way for me to do some climbing, and at
the same time, to get to know the local community of climbers. A
community from which I typically sample my friends.~Until now, I visited
more than 60 climbing gyms across the Europe, and I came to an idea to
start writing their reviews.~ ~ ~ ~ ~~

\section*{}

{\label{846253}}

\section*{Introduction ( Why should you read climbing gym
reviews?)}

{\label{776725}}

\subsection*{1.~~~~~~~~~ Climbers-for-climbers gym reviews supplement
info provided on the official climbing gym web
sites.}

{\label{863555}}

I got a feeling that climbing gyms~web sites~are often quite unorganized
and do not provide many information that are of interest for climbers.
It is hard to judge from them how big the gym is; how many routes are
set in the gym; is the gym too crowded on Tue and Thur evenings; or do
they have nice T-shirts that you can buy as a souvenir?
Climbers-for-climbers reviews supplement official gym web-sites to
provide you an info about all these sweet problems. In addition, you can
read about food in the gym, or whether the gym is kids friendly\ldots{}
And what about my pet?

\subsection*{2.~~~~~~~~~ These reviews can help you to prioritize which
gym to visit during your next trip to some super-awesome city
(e.g.~Berlin)}

{\label{374406}}

In Berlin, you can visit are more than 10 climbing gyms. Where should
you go? Berta Block, OstBloc, der Kegel or Kletterhalle Magic Mountain?
Which one is the biggest? Which one has the best routes? If you have
time to visit just one climbing gym in the city of interest, which one
to choose? When I was planning to move to Berlin, I was searching~ for
the climbing gym located in the north of it. It was so, since I knew
that, due to my workplace location, I would likely spent most of my free
\& working time in the northern part of Berlin.

Google said Berta Block Bulderhalle.

Berta Block seemed to be a perfect candidate for my new training gym,
due to its perfect location in Pankow. However, their web site was just
terrible at that time (it still requires improvements, but\ldots{} :-).
I could not judge from it whether Berta Block was a tiny gym or not. I
could not judge whether Berta Block would suit my needs to do proper
bouldering sessions. I just hoped it would. I actually had to move to
Berlin, to visit Berta to learn that Berta Block Bulderhalle is one of
the best, biggest, and most awesome bouldering gyms I have ever visited.
Berta was three times bigger than the biggest climbing gym in Croatia.
Berta was approximately fifty times bigger than the indoor bouldering
gym in Podsused in Zagreb where I did my first indoor climbing moves.
Thus, yes, yes, and yes. You can do amazing bouldering session in Berta,
although you would not expect that based on their website info. And PS I
just adore their route-setting ;)

\subsection*{3.~~~~~~~~~ Climbers-for-climbers reviews (or more likely
the list of the gyms) can help you to find a nearby climbing gym when
the weather gets
bad~}

{\label{111500}}\par\null

What do you do when, in the middle of your one week (or longer) climbing
trip, the weather gets bad, but you still want to do some climbing? You
can it do, in the closest climbing gym, if it is close enough, and if
you would know how to find it. I, myself, would counsult with Google. I
would search for the closest climbing gym. However, only occasionally,
Google might fail. Google might not know about the closest climbing gym,
and when and how to get there. For example, what if you are camping in
Starigrad Paklenica with a wish to climb. What if you cannot climb
there, since bura is blowing, or storms are raging all around you.~
Where would you go to climb? Have you ever heard about the bouldering
gym in Seline or Zadar? I guess you have not, since you need to be a
local climber to know about those bouldering ``gyms''. These are a tiny
underground-style bouldering gyms with climbing holds from the
prehistory. But these gyms do exist, and Google does not know about
them. Shame on you Google! Having said that, you become aware of the
existence of these bouldering gyms in Seline and Zadar, but do you know
how to get there?~

\par\null\par\null

\section*{Methodology:}

{\label{423761}}

\textbf{~}

To make reviews as comprehensive as possible, I created specific
descriptive categories to review uniformly each climbing gym:

~

\textbf{1)~~~~~} \textbf{Details} \textbf{about the gym visit:}

An approximate date of my last visit

Number of visits

~

\textbf{2)~~~~~} \textbf{Facts about the gym:}

Web site

Other media (Instagram/Facebook)

City

Country

Gym type: boulder/lead/both

Gym profitability: underground/commercial

Opening times

Prices

Specific tips on how to get to the gym

~

\textbf{3)~~~~~} \textbf{Measuring the gym:}

Size category: Check all that apply. XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

Area of the wall

Height of the wall

Number of boulders/routes

An outdoor climbing/bouldering area: Y/N

~

\textbf{4)~~~~~} \textbf{Route setting styles:}

\textbf{Boulder route setting:}

~~~~~~~~``skate-style'', aka jump around, aka generation
\textgreater{}2015

~~~~~~~~Old school crimps to put the kids to bed

~~~~~~~~Pumpy overhang for strong so 2000s climbers

~~~~~~~~All holds on the wall -\textgreater{} define your own route

~~~~~~~~Other:

\textbf{Route, route,} \textbf{route-setting styles:}

~~~~~~~~Boulder within the route

~~~~~~~~Technical

~~~~~~~~Pumpy overhang

~~~~~~~~Reach, flow, and consistency

~~~~~~~~Know-how - use your brain ;)

~~~~~~~~Other:

\par\null

How diverse is the route setting? 1-5

How often do you do route-setting?

\par\null\par\null\par\null

\section*{Supplement}

{\label{727908}}

\textbf{Meeting climbers == breaking prejudices}

\par\null

Only when I met climbers (e.g. my extended family), I can make
comparisons between different cultures; I can break my own prejudices
against other people \& societies. Through my climbing gym hopping
approach, I met many extraordinary people; I broke my own prejudices
against the shyness of the Finns, Scottish people confused me, I felt
like home in Ireland, and I got a huge amount of positive energy and
support from Germans when I got injured. In addition, British climbers
supported me when a Slovenian climber betrayed our historical
same-country-we-are-all-friends bonds; French climbers surprised me by
spontaneously giving me a free entry to their gym in Paris; Italian
climbers in Bari confirmed that an underground climbing scene is still
in existence, and I am originally \#climblikeagirl from \#iloveCroatia.~

~Thus, I enjoyed travelling, climbing, and meeting other climbers so
much that I always tried to maximize my time spent among climbers. In
every city I visited so far, regardless of how little time I had had, I
would always visit at least one climbing gym. After more than 30
climbing gyms visited across the Europe, I got an idea to start writing
climbing gym reviews.

\subsection*{Glossary}

{\label{440905}}\par\null

\textbf{An underground type of the climbing gym~}

fulfills some or all of the following conditions:

~~~~1. hard to get in, e.g. you need to know or contact local climbers
to enter a gym or to get a key;

~~~~2. working hours of the underground climbing gym are not precisely
defined;

~~~~3. all holds on the wall, meaning boulder problems are not set in
advance.

\textbf{A commercial type of the climbing gym:} easy to get in, defined
working hours, boulder problems set in advance.

\textbf{``skate-style''}: aka jump around, aka generation
\textgreater{}2015 style. A recent route-setting style that combines
climbing, dynamic moves and elements of parkour.

\textbf{Old school crimps to put the kids to bed --} static climbing;
holding~onto a crimper.

\textbf{Pumpy overhang for strong-so-2000s-climbers} -- dynamic climbing
with mostly vertical jumps.

\textbf{All holds on the wall} -- boulder problems not set in advance,
you need to define your own route.

\textbf{Reach, flow, and consistency --} fluent (stamina) climbing,
without weird parts.

\textbf{Know-how - use your brain --} a route that is not super-obvious
to climb.





\par\null

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